Licht auf die «dunkle Materie» des Genoms

Kommissar Zufall spielte mit: ETH-Forscher um Professor Bruce McDonald haben erstmals gezeigt, dass sich nicht kodierende Gen-Teile, die sogenannten Introns, selbst kopieren und im Genom herumspringen. Dennoch bleiben diese DNS-Sequenzen rätselhaft.

ETH Life, 30.11.2011

Computer reguliert Gen-Schaltkreis

Elektro- und Bioingenieure haben in Hefezellen einen genetischen Schaltkreis geschaffen, der von einem Computer gesteuert und reguliert wird. Die Technik hat grosses Potenzial für biotechnologische Anwendungen.

ETH Life, 11.11.2011

Keine drei Tage später, Pizolgebiet, letzter Blick vor dem Seilbähnli runter ins Tal, hinauf zu den Grauen Hörnern, da kreist ebenfalls ein grosser Brocken: wieder ein Gänsegeier. ca. 10 min lang gleitet er einer Krete entlang, kreist, kehrt zurück zur Krete, schliesslich schraubt er sich immer höher hinauf und verschwindet in den Wolken.

Endlich im Aabach-Delta, quasi déjà-vu, kein Vogel da, suchen hilft nichts, er ist einfach nicht da. Wie gehabt beim Pelikan, wie gehabt bei der Kurzzehenlerche am Katzensee. Ich immer einen Schritt hinterher, gell. Und nach ein paar Versuchen, da versucht man es nicht mehr. Aber dann nehme ich die Bewegung auf dem Kies war, von einem kleinen dunkel und weissen Vogel, und siehe da, Erfolg: erster Schweizer Sumpfläufer für mich. Und er lässt sich dann auch noch schön sehen, mit gegabeltem Überaugenstreifen.

Gut, nach einer halben Stunde hat’s dann gereicht. Zurück auf den Zug, vorbei an den würmer fischenden Austernfischer.

Sumpfläufer von Schmerikon

In der Hecke erste Klappergrasmücke des Jahres; ein Girlitz, eine Schafstelze (nur gehört).

7.4. wohl auch ein Erstnachweis: Wanderfalke kreist hoch über dem Schloss, zieht rasch nordostwärts.

Da fliegt er auf Augenhöhe an einem vorbei, man sieht fast jedes einzelne Barthaar. Er kreist vor der Wand links der Station, schraubt sich in die Höhe, segelt über die Köpfe hinweg nach rechts, verschwindet wieder für ein Weilchen. Und kommt, kaum sitzt man im Bergrestaurant beim Schümlipflümli, um den Vogel zu feiern, wieder hervor, zieht erneut seine Bahn. So ges(ch)ehen am Sonntag, 21.2.

Den ersten Kontakt gab’s schon zum Frühstück im Hotel, Samstag, 20.2., dank Fensterplatz im Speisesaal. Da zeigt sich ein grosser Greifvogel am grauen Himmel über Leukerbad und kein Zweifel, das muss er sein. Am Nachmittag, wieder vom Speisesaal aus, diesmal auf der Rinderalp oberhalb Leukerbad, zieht der Bartli von Tal her in Richtung Gemmi, hoch über Skistation und Touristen, unbemerkt von allen.

Bartgeier von der Gemmi, Foto von Marcel Ruppen

Die Zeit reicht auch noch für einen Abstecher in die Bolle. Von der Verzasca-Seite her, zu Fuss kurzes Stück bis zum Pappelbestand beim ehemaligen Camping. EIne Nachtigall singt freisitzend auf einem Ast. Die Zwergohreule ruft. Wind kommt auf, was für die Nachsuche nicht förderlich ist. Wir kehren im Dunkeln um, und fahren nach Magadino, Hotel Favini, 50 CHF pro Nacht und Nase. Nehmen Bier. Schlummern bald ein…

2.5. Am Morgen erstes Ziel: Stallone, Bolle. Wir fahren am berüchtigten Bauernhof mit den giftigen Kötern vorbei. Nichts bellt, nicht kläfft. Hund tot? Wir stellen Auto in sicherer Entfernung zum Hof ab, birden in Richtung Beringungsstation. Über den Feldern wenig Zug, ausser wenigen Schafstelzen nicht viel los. 14 Trauerseeschwalben ziehen über uns hinweg. 2 Wiesenweihen und 2 Rohrweihen jagen. Eine Wiesenweihe ist ein Männchen 2. KJ, interessanter Vogel. AUf dem Rückweg sitzen Steinschmätzer und Braunkehlchen auf dem Feldweg. Via Felder Tenero weiter nach Gudo auf der Suche nach Steinkauz. Auf einem Acker eine Turteltaube. Beim üblichen Stall ist kein Kauz mehr, dafür dahinter in einer Wiese gegen 10 Braunkehlchen. Treffen wieder Aedu und Pitsch. Sie haben andere Käuze gefunden. Wir suchen einen neuen Ort auf und finden prompt einen Steinkauz, der in einem Fensterloch sitzt.

Bald zurück zum Frühstück ins Hotel, danach zügig ins Val Bavona. In Bolla wie vor 2 Jahren ohne Probleme 2 singende Halsbandschnäpper. Wir fahren noch bis San Carlo, wo allerdings der Winter noch nicht lange abgezogen ist. Die Vegetation ist kaum entwickelt. Es blüht nichts. Vögel sind da, unter anderem 4 Schafstelzen (was machen die in dem Krachen?), Braunkehlchen (1), Berglaubsänger, Gartenrotschwanz.

Rückfahrt mit Mittagessen in einem Grotto. Bei Riveo vermuten wir Blaumerle im Steinbruch direkt an der Strasse. Wir steigen aus dem Auto aus und hören sogleich den Gesang. André findet das Männchen, schön sitzend auf einem Metallring.

Weiter nach Locarno, Chiesa San Antonio, Fahlsegler. Auch hier dauert es nicht sehr lange, bis ein Vogel aus einem der Löcher vis-à-vis des Coiffeurladens fliegt. Nach einer halben Stunde haben wir auch Mauer- und Alpensegler gesehen.

Weiter nach Magadino und über die steile Passstrasse nach Indemini. Ornithologisch nicht mehr ergiebig, Steinadler in weiter Ferne über Berggipfeln, Gartenrotschwanz im Dorf. Nach dem wir die verwinkelten Gässchen und Häuschen besichtigt haben fahren wir zurück nach Magadino, unterwegs tote Aspisviper auf Strasse.

André fährt am Abend nach Winterthur zurück. Wir laden ihn in Cadenazzo am Bahnhof aus und fahren zurück in Bolle. Dort rasch Silberreiher beobachtet, dann erreicht uns Anruf von Aedu, der von einem Rotkopfwürger berichtet. Also wieder nach Gudo, doch Nachsuche bleibt erfolglos.

Nachtessen auf der Piazza in Locarno.

3.5. Am frühen Morgen Spazier in die Bolle bei Magadino. Erster Vogel ist erster Grauschnäpper der Saison. Beim Bootsbauer ruft Wendehals, weiter hinten später ein zweiter und eventuell ein dritter nahe des Hotels. Wir spazieren über den teilweise überfluteten Weg bis zur Beobachtungshütte, beobachten Purpurreiher, Silberreiher, Eisvogel, Hechte bei der Paarung im flachen Wasser. Turteltaube gurrt. Beim Beobachtungsstand hat man normalerweise einen Blick auf das sich bildende Delta des Ticino. Heute ist der Wasserstand zu hoch. Umkehren und Seitenweg in den Wald hinein. Doch weit kommt man da auch nicht. Der Weg steht unter Wasser. So solls sein im Auenwald…

Frühstücken und Packen und dann ins Malcantone nach Vezio. Spaziergang durch Kastanienselve, wenig Vögel ausser Schwarzspecht, dafür aber eine Aspisviper im Ginstergestrüpp am Wegrand.

Aspisviper, Vezio (TI)

Danach ein Dorfrundgang in Breno und weiter nach Cademario, wo wir den letzten Spaziergang des Tages zum Monasterio San Bernardo unternehmen. AUch hier wenig Nennenswertes, doch der Schlangenadler, der plötzlich am Himmel zu sehen ist und bald wegzieht, ist unerwartet und der Orni-Höhepunkt.

Gegen 15.15 Uhr treten wir Rückreise an. Statt stauen am Gotthard fahren wir über den San Bernardino – wo sichs auch staut, aber nicht ganz so lange…

Um 19.30 wieder in Winterthur.

We arrive at Casablanca Airport after 10 pm., get the car from Alamo / National, pre-booked through Liberty Bird, Berne. Within short distance from the airport, we reach Hotel Atlas, our accommodation for the first night, pre-booked as well. We check in before midnight.

10/03

After a very lousy breakfast at this costly place, we take off back to the airport in order to get money and fuel. Around the hotel, first Spotless Starling, Chaffinches, Cattle Egrets fly overhead. A Little Owl is sitting close to the road on a concrete block. A lot of trouble comes at the airport, as the money machine doesn’t dispense the amount but it gets booked off my account, so we lose 1,5 hrs waiting for bank branch to open and get the thing fixed. Result: my money is taken, other bills dispensed, tank filled. Around the airport, House Swifts are common.

Navigational skills have to be improved, as we take a wrong turn and end on the slow road to Marrakech. We are crossing the motorway twice but cannot find an entry point; have a coffee break at a roadside café after the town of Settat, head on and eventually find the road to the motorway. After paying the road toll, we drive to Marakech, best bird en route is a Calandra Lark in song flight, crossing the motorway near Ben Guerir.

With relative ease, we make it through Marakech, turn off to Oukaimeden and head on swiftly. As soon as we enter the foothills of the High Atlas, the scenery changes dramatically. First stop in the valley that leads up to Oukaimeden, km post Oukaimeden 24, we find our first Moussier’s Redstart and a Rock Bunting. We experience the first and one of the worst hassles by children, begging for money, pens and whatever they see in our car, so we can’t continue our search for Levaillant’s Woodpecker. As fast as possible, we proceed to Oukaimeden. Shortly before we reach the village, 8 Choughs and 1 Rock Dove are spotted.

We pay at the entrance gate, turning left at the main square and continue to the ski lift area. We get out of the car, and virtually first birds we spot are Crimson-winged Finches. Up to 20 are sitting on the cable of the ski lift, and we are able to take pictures. After a while, we climb up the slope where we spot several Horned Larks. More finches and Northern Ravens fly by as we cross the slope towards the village. After having completed a short loop walk, we walk back to our car, where eager merchants try to sell us necklaces and crystals. The finches and the larks are now feeding along the road, five meters away from our car!

We decide to leave Oukaimeden, as alpine species are not our prime targets (sorry, Alpine Accentor is not really a gripper for swiss birders). In a fast and furious drive, Niklaus speeds down the valley. Near km post Oukaimeden 23, we hear a woodpecker calling. Checking out with our mp3 player, we soon realize that it’s a Levaillants’s! We drive for another 500 meters to get closer to the bird, which is spotted easily sitting at the top of a walnut tree, close to the road.

Very satisfied with our first day, we continue to Asni along Tizi n Test pass and eventually check in at Hotel Roseraie some miles further up the pass. It’s quite a place, with a pleasing décor kept in a traditional Moroccan stile.

11/03

I get up early and have walk around the hotel garden. There are plenty of songbirds, but it’s mostly European stuff, e.g. Song Thrush, Great Tit, Blackbird, Sardinian Warbler, Chaffinch, (of the nice subspecies africanus), the first ultramarinus Blue Tits turn up. In half darkness I see a chunky snipe like bird passing by which must have been a Woodcock. An Iberian Chiffchaff is singing. Star of the morning show is another Levaillant’s Woodpecker, calling from a palm tree, sitting exposed, very easy to spot in the middle of the hotel garden!

After a rich breakfast, we get our first House Bunting, another Rock Bunting, Crag Martin and Red-rumped Swallow (3) circling overhead. We start at 9 am to our crossing of Tizi n Test pass. This is a very scenic drive with plenty of photo opportunities, thus we stop many times en route. There are good birds to be seen as well, e.g. Cirl Bunting, Black Wheatear at Taroudannt KM 138, 2 Bonelli’s Eagles near the village of Ijoukak, another Black Wheatear is sitting at Taroudannt KM 105, Blue Rock Thrush and a Coal Tit further on. At Taroudannt KM 100, the third Levaillant’s Woodpecker of the trip is calling.

Further up the road, at Taroudannt KM 96 / Marakech 123, habitat (Juniper bushes interspersed with Holm Oak coppice) seems ideal for Tristram’s Warbler, so we leave the car at a small roadside parking lot, follow a dirt track at the right side of the road, leading through tall bush. Soon we are rewarded for our instinct: a splendid male Tristram’s Warbler shows up in song flight. A female is foraging in a bush, later joined by the male which gives excellent views. In the distance, a male Moussier’s Redstart is singing from a bush.

Very satisfied, having found another target species easily, we proceed to the pass, have a coffee break and head down towards Souss valley. The road is narrow and winding, but we spot more Moussier’s Redstarts, Black Wheatears and two Dorcas Gazelles above the road. This are the only wild “big” mammals during the whole trip.

At Tafingoult, we try the argana forest, mentioned in Bergier as one of the best in the region. Timing is bad (midday heat) and the forest is heavily degraded. Besides Common Redstart, Woodchats, Subalpine Warbler, Southern Grey Shrikes there’s not much to be seen.

So we make our way to Agadir through to Taroundannt where we get lost, seeing some House and Pallid Swifts, and we pretty soon, we find ourselves on what must be the old road to Agadir. Before Agadir, first mauritanica Magpies start to appear.

In the city, I am loosing orientation again but all of a sudden we are in the right spot, the mouth of the river Souss! Sometimes small miracles happen… We park our car near the small warden’s hut and follow the dirt track in the direction of the estuary. There are plenty of waders, e.g. Bar-tailed Godwit, Kentish Plover (200), Oystercatchers (30), Greater Flamingos (250), as well as Ruddy Shelduck (3), up to 5 Audouin’s Gulls, Med Gull (3) and an adult Slender-billed Gull. On our way back, we get decent views of two Stone-curlews. On the palace wall, two Barbary Partridges are spotted.

We wait at the gate near the guard’s hut until dusk, and soon after 7 pm. two Red-necked Nightjars start calling. We try to see them and put some effort into this. We drive back to the entrance road that leads to the royal palace. One of the birds is calling right beside the palace entrance. This is a sensitive area, thus a guard wants to have as off the scene. From where the reserve road branches off, we got to see one bird eventually, though we are still suspiciously eyed by one of the police officers. After all he must have thought of us as the harmless nutters.

Very worn and tired, we check at the nearby Golf Hotel Palace, a luxurious place near the reserve.

12/03

I get up early and have a short walk in the hotel garden, where Little Grebe and Common Sandpiper “flock” a small pond. There are quite a lot of Magpies. In a eucalyptus tree, a noisy flock of Siskin is around.

After a very good breakfast, well worth the extra money, we drive off in direction of Tamri, this time crossing the city is easy, as I can use a city map that I got at the hotel desk. While driving, Moussier’s Redstart and Spotless Starlings are the most note worthy birds.

We don’t stop on our way to Tamri, so we reach the area by around 9.30 hrs. 2 Kilometers after the village, we get stopped by a policeman, but no further hassles from his side. We proceed for another 2 km before I discover first flock of 8 Bald Ibis foraging in wheat fields on the far left side of the road. Unfortunately, the birds get flushed by locals. We park the car on the side of the road and take a stroll towards the coast. More Bald Ibises are seen, flying low back and forth. Spectacled Warblers, Tawny Pipits, Thekla Larks and Moussier’s Redstarts are seen. Seawatching produces 4 Gannets, 1 Shag, several Cormorants and Lesser Black-backed Gulls. On our way back to the car, 5 Cream-colored Coursers fly over.

After midday we head back to Tamri (with a new hotel built north part of the village), have a coffee break and than we drive to Oued Massa. This takes about 2 hours. In Oued Massa, we drive through minor narrow roads down to the river, the site is described in Bergier. No Plain Martins are seen, only Sand Martins. In the fields, many Corn Buntings, Yellow Wagtails, Zitting Cisticolas. Along the track, a male Moussier’s Redstarts shows exceptionally well. In the reed, we got Sedge Warbler.

We drive back to the village and head towards the park entrance. After the dry hill, we find a splendid Black-crowned Tchagra in the tamarisks. It’s easy to imitate the song by whistling and the bird puts in appearance in bushes that borders a small field. Another Moussier’s is present as well as Western Olivaceous Warbler.

On the way to the park entrance, we see Spotless Starlings, a Palm Dove and a Little Owl. At the park entrance, we are stopped by a guard. He is trying to sell us himself as our guide, but as it’s already late we dismiss his idea, pay him a small fee for parking and a leaflet and do some birding along the first 200 meters after the parking lot. We see 7 Spoonbills, Teal and Pochard, Redshank, Green Sandpiper and another Little Owl. A Mongoose is standing among the Spoonbills.

Soon, we head back to the village and follow the vague directions to a Plain Martin site given in a trip report. We don’t find the place in time, so we leave the area late. Last bird of the day is a splendid male Black-eared Whearear. The drawback is, that we have to drive back to Agadir in complete darkness. Not a good idea, but Niklaus is a superb driver, and we make it through to the city and check in at Hotel Argana, a not so charming touristic place. Rooms smell a bit mouldy, but it’s OK.

13/03

Today, we make the long drive to Ouarzazate through Souss Valley, follow route N10, later route P1706 with 10 Black-bellied Sandgrouses overhead, some observation and tortoise emergency stops, saving them from becoming road kills. We try one of the dirt tracks branching off to the right. Get to see Short-toed Larks, two Coursers and several Trumpeter Finches. We stop in a place near the junction of Alououz in a nice stand of Argana trees. 3 Hoopoes, Moussier’s Redstart, Tawny Pipit, a male Black-eared Wheatear and a possible 1^st year female Tristram’s Warbler are seen.

Another stop is made at km post Agadir KM 168 / Ouarzazate 193. There’s another nice stretch of Argana forest, so we try to find some bush birds. Best birds are two male Orphean Warblers, singing and chasing each other.

Near Taliouine KM 17, we save another tortoise and get to see the only 3 Spanish Sparrows of the trip. After the obligate coffee break at a street café in Taliouine, we drive on, down a dirt track east of the village, randomly chosen. There’s a Black Wheatear.

Next stop is at Tazenakht KM 48, where some dutch birders once found Dupont’s Lark. Of course timing is bad, anyhow we go on a loop walk, climbing a small hill. We find 4 Coursers, Desert Wheatear, Trumpeter Finches and the one and only Isabelline Wheatear of the trip. Nevertheless, this area is looking promising and an early morning visit could produce more desert species.

We proceed to Ouarzazate, no stops but for refuelling. Last birding stop is at a beautiful river called Asif Iriri that runs through the desert. There is our first subpersonata White Wagtail, a Little Ringed Plover and some migrants are dwelling in fig trees, e.g. Hoopoe, Subalpine Warbler.

We arrive at Ouarzazate at 4 pm, check in at Hotel La Vallée, and than we are back on the road towards the lake, 14 km after Ourzazate, we turn left on a dirt track that runs towards the lake. This is not the one mentioned in Bergier, but at least we are rewarded with the first and only Mourning Wheatear, being the seventh Wheatear species of the day! Other good finds at lake: three Ospreys, Marsh Harrier, Coot and Great Crested Grebes in the middle of the desert. In the tamarisk bushes, there’s another Subalpine Warbler. In the rapidly vanishing daylight, we are driving back to the hotel.

14/03

We make an early start, with a fast drive down the valley of river Draa. The landscape is dramatic, but first stop is only made at km post Marakech 223, where we find 3 Blue-cheeked Bee-Eaters sitting on a wire. Not five minutes later, we experience quite a hassle from a date street vendor. Luckily the birds take off and we do the same – as fast as possible…

We dash down to Mhamid, but no further stops until km Mhamid 36, where a Fulvous Babbler is flying over the road, joining a group of 5 birds that is foraging in a nearby tamarisk.

At Mhamid, next target is Desert Sparrow, but first attempt has to be delayed due to a sandstorm, sight is down to 100 meters, the air is hardly breathable and after a short coffee break at the village square we head back, checking in at Hotel Tabarkat, a Spanish run place 4 km before the village, a nice and comfortable place, built in berber stile. We drive some 30 km back north, where there is much less sand in the air. At Mhamid KM 34, we stop again. There’s a flat area with low and sparse bushes, close to the road. We park and while still chewing on my orange, I connect with the hoped for African Desert Warbler within 2 minutes! It is joined by a pair of Hoopoe Lark, a personal first for 15 years!

After that, we try a track at km Ouarzazate km 217. We follow the track for about 1 km trough the stony desert. Another Hoopoe Lark is singing, a male Black-eared Wheatear, Desert Larks and Southern Grey Shrikes are the only birds seen.

We drive back to the road and proceed to a site mentioned in Bergier; where the road crosses the Oued Draa. We take a short walk along the Draa river and the edge of the cultivated areas. Subalpine Warblers are quite common, there’s a Sardinian Warbler, 2 Hoopoes, and the ubiquitous White-crowned Black Wheatear.

In the late afternoon, we drive back to Mhamid. The sandstorm is over, so we give the sparrows a second try, but are unable to find the site, end up at the end of the tarmac road outside the village. We ask a guy for directions. He turns out to be owner of a bivouac, so he’s eager to show us his camp. After some negotiations, he agrees on guiding us to Bivouac Petit Prince near Old Mhamid. We reach the place in last half hour of daylight and connect with the Desert Sparrows within minutes. 24 individuals are counted, hopping around the dromedary dung. This site seems to be very reliable and is saving us the long way to Erfoud. The owner of the place though does not seem to be too happy to have people here just looking for the birds not staying overnight, eating and drinking at his camp. He was not so enthusiastic about seeing his competitor at his camp either…

We drive back to our hotel, satisfied with the result of our quest. Evening meal is very nice, best tajine of the trip…

15/03

We book a 4-wheel trip to the sand dunes of Chegaga, one of the major scenic attractions of lower Draa valley. It’s a long three hour drive to get there but its well worth money and time. Soon after Mhamid, 4×4 is necessary, as there’s plenty of sand. There are quite a few Brown-necked Ravens. First stop is made for several CC Coursers close to the track, Hoopoe Larks as well and a Common Whitethroat in a tiny green spot.

En route, not many birds are seen, e.g. Short-toed Lark, Common Redstart, 4 Bee-eaters overhead and 3 Black Kites in the middle of the desert. As we approach the so called sacred oasis, we get to see 300 Spotted Sandgrouses that come to drink at a small pond at the edge of the oasis. 6 Desert Larks gather at a small creek.

We continue, with a light phase Booted Eagle as last highlight before the dunes.

We have a short walk in the dunes, climb the first and the second crest of sand, it’s a breath taking sight; vast stretches of pure sand all across to Algeria. A Bar-tailed Desert Lark appears out of nothing, but can’t be observed for long as it dives down behind a dune.

The weather changes, sky turns from blue to grey in no time, so we head back towards Mhamid. Wind is coming up. We stop at a camp, see more Bar-tailed Desert Larks and Hoopoe Larks on the long way back. Suddenly, sight is down to 100 meters. Our driver doesn’t seem to be worried so we hang back and enjoy the scenery. All of a sudden 15 Spotted Sandgrouse are sitting on the track and are reluctant to move. The storm is getting worse and we make a straight drive back to the hotel where we arrive at 2 pm. We are quite exhausted, so we have a siesta.

After this we try to get postcards in Mhamid, buy a necklace but no cards, go back to the hotel, have a stroll in the palm groves near the hotel which is rather fruitless. Common Redstart, Northern Wheatear, 2 Tawny Pipits overhead and a Woodchat are the only birds.

Wind drops fast. Sky clears up within half an hour. But we have no power to go anywhere so we stay back in the hotel where we have our last decent buffet.

16/03

Long drive to Boumalne de Dades. With several stops en route between Mhamid and Ouarzazate, we find a good array of species. First stop is made at km Marakech 411, a wadi with Acacia trees and low bushes. Not much here, but a Western Bonelli’s Warbler shows well.

First highlight are 2 Blue-cheeked Bee-Eaters near Camping Bni Ali, another flock of eight is seen at km Zagora 31 / Agdz 61 (old watch tower). Further on, I see a Spectacled Warbler in a roadside gully.

We stop at the barrage Tansikht between Zagora and Agdz. While Niklaus is trying to take pictures of a flock of Trumpeter Finches, I take a stroll through the dry river bed dotted with single low bushes. After a while, I find the second Tristram’s Warbler of the trip, a confinding male searching the bushes and showing exceptionally well.

En route, a Short-toed Eagle passes over.

Another stop is made at Oued Tiflit, a dry river bed with nice garden patches along its shores. There are plenty of migrants trapped in that patch of fresh green: Common Redstart, Hoopoe, Serin, Subalpine Warbler, Willow Warbler, Crag Martin and 40 Rock Pigeons (seem to be the real stuff) are seen.

We make a straight and steady drive to Ouarzazate, where we have coffee break, than we drive on towards Boumalne, where we arrive rather late in the evening. We check in at Hotel Soleil Bleu, head down to Tagdilt in the rapidly vanishing daylight. 20 Short-toed Larks, Skylark, 3 Northern Wheatears and first pair of Red-rumped Wheatear at the rubbish tip is all we get so see in 30 minutes of birding.

17/03

Before breakfast, we drive to the Tagdilt track. Short-toed Lark is seen in flocks. At the rubbish tip, we get Desert Wheatear, more Red-rumped Wheatears and within five minutes we connect with the hoped for Thick-billed Lark, one female, one male. Birds don’t stay long and fly off, not seen again. There are Lesser Short-toeds as well, Temminck’s Horned Larks are easily found. After 2 hours we get back to the hotel have breakfast clear the rooms and go back on the track. Seems that first daylight is best, but not any other birds appear apart form a Long-legged Buzzard and the first Barbary Falcon of the trip. In the distance, a Black-bellied Sandgrouse is calling. There are more CC Coursers at the far end of the track, but we turn after some km before we reach the hills.

We drive back to Boulmalne, having lunch in one of the roadside cafes. We drive on to Ouarzazate and beyond, reaching Ait Benhaddou in late afternoon. We park after the village near some green cultivated areas, doing a short loop walk. There are migrants, e.g. 30 Yellow Wagtails, Northern and Black-eared Wheatear. Little Ringed Plover in a flooded field, 50 Rock Sparrows on a mud wall utter their distinctive calls.

We go back to the village check in at Hotel Rose du sable, but as the sun’s going down fast we rush out to see the famous Kasbah in last good light. It’s a marvellous place but full of tourists and guides who eager to show people around. That’s the disgusting thing about it so we don’t go to close. In a garden, there’s a Redstart, Subalpine Warbler, Chiffchaff and Blue Tits ultramarinus.

We go back to the hotel at dusk, but to our surprise, the rooms the hotelier showed are not available so he puts us in the basement, next to a kitchen facility. Well, he gripped us off, but we are too tired to look for another place. So we stay in a rather grim mood despite the slimy attitude of the hotel manager. Worst of all, there’s no beer at the restaurant despite the fact that this place is in a touristic area.

18/03

Early morning walk to the Kasbah to see it in the most beautiful morning light. Haven’t taken into account that there might be clouds… Quite a lot of migrants in the gardens around the Kasbah, good views of a Goldfinch of the North African subspecies and a very confinding Western Bonelli’s Warbler in an almond tree. We soon get back to the hotel, have breakfast, leave the shit hole for good and drive to Tizi n Test pass. Not many birds en route, the last White-crowned Wheatear after Ait, a Laughing Dove after Amerzgane. Soon, Black Wheatears along the southern slope of the pass are seen. Another highlight are 20 Red-billed Choughs in a field before the pass.

Around two km after the pass on the northern slope, we stop because of the fantastic view – and get 5 Crimson-winged Finches flying over. It’s a petty that there is so much slow traffic, we have to hurry to get ahead of the long queue. Driving down the pass, quite a lot of Rock Sparrows are seen and heard. We stop at another nice spot, very scenic, which has Cettis’ Warbler and Grey Wagtail.

Long drive with a single stop at Toufliat, having a coffee, first Great Spotted Woodpecker and a light phase Booted Eagle. In a rush down the rest of the pass, crossing Marakech, getting stopped for speeding, luckily, we don’t have to pay a fine. On the motorway to Casablanca, exit there and drive to River Oued Oum er Ribia in search of Plain Martin. Lots of Western Olivaceaous Warblers in the woods, a Hoopoe and after the while the hoped for Plain Martins, first one is seen in a distance downstream of the old bridge, so I make a dash for about 500 meters and find two birds. This spot was found by a group of Swiss birders in December 2001 and seems to be reliable. So anyone starting in Casablanca heading south, this spot is worth the little detour.

After this straight drive on the motorway to Casablanca – Temara where I oversee a stop signal, get caught by the police and this time too, they let us go without having to pay a fine which would have cost 700 dirham.

We check in shiny tourist hotel, Club Yasmina, Temara Plage, but it’s quite bad value for money so I bargain with the hotel manager who reduces the price by 200 dirham to 500.

We head out for a first francolin attempt at Sidi Yahia area, it’s a 45 minutes drive in heavy traffic so we arrive late. First stop at the parking space mentioned in Bergier, but nothing can be seen nor heard.

We drive on, turn right at a randomly chosen crossing, a dirt tack leads down a gully with bushes and here, maybe 500 meters from the road we hear the Double-spurred Francolin calling but we are unable to see the bird. In full darkness we drive back to Temara plage.

19/03

Another attempt for the DS Francolin, first 10 minutes on the parking place, than straight to the track which we speed by, so we have to turn around and at the “Sidi Bettache 12 km” sign, we turn left. It’s the same spot as yesterday. Again, we can hear the DS Francolin calling. Sitting in our car, we wait for about 15 minutes. Eventually I catch a glimpse of the the bird moving through the vegetation on the right hand side. Suddenly, it runs across a small clearing, vanishing in a the dense bush before Niklaus can spot the bird. After a while I can hear a rustle in the bush next to the car, and all of a sudden, the bird appears again, walking on the road right ahead of us! What a sight!

After a while, as the there’s no sign of the Francolin anymore, we walk about the bushes but nothing more can be found except for a Long-legged Buzzard soaring high in the sky.

We drive back towards Sidi Yahia, on to Lac Sidi Bourhaba, where we arrive after lunch time. We park the car and walk along the east bank at the northern tip of the lake, first bird on the pond is a Crested Coot feeding two chicks. There are at least 25 Marbled Ducks on the main water body, together with Red-crested Pochard, several Ferruginous Ducks, Greater Flamingo further south. As weather is getting worse, we go back to car where the first big drops are falling down out of a grim dark sky. We proceed to the holiday village of Kenitra, where a hard wind is blowing and sea watching virtually impossible because of wind and rain mixed with sand. So we give the idea a miss to go on to Merja Zerga for Marsh Owl.

Even the relatively short drive to Temara is terrible. So much traffic and very bad drivers…Worst of all is a French guy in a SUV.

20/03

Last birding morning spent along the beach of Temara plage. Luckily it’s low tide and there are plenty of waders on the shelf: Whimbrel, Turnstone, Ringed Plover, Oystercatcher, Kentish and Grey Plover are all there in good numbers. The sea is still rough with onshore winds blowing, however no significant seabirds passage takes place except for some Gannets, 1 Arctic Skua. One Common Scoter male shows a lot of orange on its bill, but the water surface is to bumpy to see the bird for longer than one second at the time. Anyway, there are good photo opportunities for shots of Sandwich’s Tern and Little Egret.

After 11 am., we stop birding and walk back to the hotel ground, packing and loading the car and say goodbye. Within 1,5 hours we arrive at the airport. Check in is smooth, as is the flight back to Zurich where we land at 19.10 hrs.

Species lists

Target species

Our target species were species that Niklaus had not seen on his first visit to Morocco in 2001 and my wish list, consisting of species I hadn’t seen in WP and that I missed on previous trips to Israel and Spain.

Bald Ibis: Easily found 4 km north of Tamri on 12/03, the usual site for this rare and endangered species. We found a group of 10 birds feeding in a wheat field close to the road and peasants working on the fields at around 9 am. We walked towards the coast and by pure chance found the colony further north situated in a cliff. For obvious reason, no details can be revealed here.

Double-spurred Francolin: An extra effort was necessary to see the bird. We found one calling male north of the usual site (cf. Bergier) on18/03, the bird was calling and showed exceptionally well on the track in front of our car the following morning. Coming from Sidi Yahia, go right at the crossing at km pole “Sidi Bettache 12″, follow the track for about 500 meters, stop and listen. The bush land is not as dense as at the Bergier parking space, so there’s a good chance of seeing the bird walking on the ground.

Crested Coot: A pair with chicks easily found at Lac de Sidi Bourhaba on 19/03. A further dozen birds were spotted on the lake.

Levaillant’s Woodpecker: First heard calling on our descent from Oukaimeden, near KM post “Oukaimeden 22″, 10/03. Later we discovered the bird sitting atop of a walnut tree close to the road.
Another two birds were found in the hotel garden of the Hotel La Roseraie along Tizi n’Test pass, and from the car, we heard a bird calling near the last settlement before the col at KM post “Taroudannt 100″ on 11/03.

Blue-cheeked Bee-Eater: 3 birds were seen on our way down to Mhamid on 14/03. A group of 8 birds migrating north on 16/03 near km post Zagora 31 / Agdz 61. This is a good vantage point with an old watch tower, overviewing the whole valley, potentially a good spot for watching migrating raptors.

Red-necked Nightjar: Two birds calling after dusk along the entrance road to Oued Souss reserve on 11/03. One bird was spotted with a torch (eye shine) high in a tree near the parking lot by the palace gate.

Thick-billed Lark: A pair at the rubbish dump, Tagdilt track on 17/03. Bird is nice and rare, but crap place to see it.

Plain Martin: We spotted two birds flying over the river Oued Oum Er Ribbia, between Settat and Marrakech on 18/03. We missed the species at Oued Massa and had to try this site which is not mentioned in any report I checked on the internet. The site was discovered incidentally by the Swiss run Liberty Bird Tour in December 2001.

Moussier’s Redstart: First seen near km post “Oukaimeden 22″ on steep slope on 10/03. More birds were seen on southern slope of Tizi n’Test, between Agadir and Tamri, at Tamri and Oued Massa.

Red-rumped Wheatear: Only seen along Tagdilt track, up to 10 birds, mostly males, on 17/03 and 18/03.

Black Wheatear: First contact with the species along Tizi n’Test, northern slope on 11/03. A pair breeding in a stone wall of the road.

Tristram’s Warbler: One male in song flight seen near KM post “Taroudannt 96/Marakech 123″, Tizi n’Test, later a female hoping through the bush on the 11/03. Another male was found in a dry bushy river bed between Zagora and Agdz, Draa valley, close to KM post “Marakech 286″. There’s an obvious white green sign saying Barrage Tansikhte. Drive down the track, park somewhere behind the dam and search the bushes.

African Desert Warbler: Within two minutes, we connected with this species in a patch of low scrub interspersed with sand along the road to Mhamid, km post “Mhamid 34″ on 14/03. Coming from Tagounite, the patch is on the right hand side of the road.

Black-crowned Tchagra: One male, singing along the road to Oued Massa reserve on 12/03. Well seen, foraging in bushes. Song heard from the parking place near the Royal hunting lodge, Sidi Yahia, on 19/03.

Fulvous Babbler: Luckily, one bird seen crossing the road in front of our car during our voyage down to Mhamid, km post “Mhamid 36″ on the 14/03. The bird joined a group of 6 babblers, searching some bushes for food. The only observation.

Desert Sparrow: 24 birds seen in bivouac Petit Prince near Mhamid on 14/03. The sparrows feed on the camel dung. This site seems to be reliable spot for this species but is not as easily found as Erfoud/Merzouga. Either you choose to stay overnight at the bivaouc, booked through the agency in the village (that’s what the owners of the camp like you to do) or you hire a guide in the village to show you the way to the camp (the way we did it).

Crimson-winged Finch: Up to 20 birds seen at Oukaimeden ski station on 10/03, these confinding birds were seen feeding along the parking lot at close quarters to people. Another group of birds flying off a parking space were briefly seen on Tizi n’Tichka pass on 18/03, about 2 kilometers north of the pass (Marrakech side).

Target birds missed / not looked for:

Dupont’s Lark                                  best site near Zeida well off our itinerary

Marsh Owl                                        tired of driving for hours, we gave this species a miss

Egyptian Nightjar                            neither heard nor seen, the species is mentioned for the Draa Valley in Bergier, but no specific sites are given.

André Weiss reagierte rasch auf mein SMS und konnte den Vogel auch sehen.

4-5 Steinschmätzer rasteten auf dem Acker, zusammen mit dem Pieper. Ansonsten: nichts. Der Acker ist derzeit nicht bewirtschaftet und leicht verunkrautet, für Vögel perfekt. Wann macht der erste Rotkehlpieper Zwischenhalt?

Am Morgen: 1 Klappergrasmücke, singend, Veltheim hinter Kirche, 1 Trauerschnäpper, singend, Weinbergstrasse 70, und die ersten Mauersegler des Jahres, über dem Wolfensberg kreisend.

Der Vogel war leicht zu sehen vom Weide-Hide aus. Allerdings nicht so nah wie gewünscht, aber dennoch schön im letzten Abendlicht und daher ein würdiger Kanton Zürich-Tick. Und der Vierte in der Schweiz. 1984 einer im Reusstal, 2007 im Kaltbrunner, 2008 in der Krümmi.

Teichwasserläufer, Neeri, 15.4.09

Und der war auch ganz hübsch:

Silberreiher, Neeri, 15.4.09

Im Baldisried an diesem Morgen eine aufgescheuchte Bekassine, auch nichts Alltägliches in der Umgebung.